To help avoid this run around I have tried to compile a checklist of things below that folks should run through with their builder and rectify BEFORE they take formal possession of the residence.
If you find anything missing then please feel free to leave a comment and I will add for the benefit of all our readers
Here goes :-
- Check for gaps between door frame and wall. Push the frame to see it is anchored firmly
- Check for hinge fitting, ensure there are screws in each of the screw ports.
- Check door catcher/ stopper for proper functioning
- Check door knobs & locks for smooth closure & functioning.
ALUMINUM/ UPVC DOORS & WINDOWS
- Check Lack of alignment if any. Ensure that the doors open and close easily.
- Check rubber beading for hardening, cracks
- Check if the grills are properly painted
- Ensure that the door/ window frame has drain holes
- Check that the shutters lock properly
- Ensure that the glass is fixed properly and the beading is intact and not coming off.
WALLS & CEILING
- Check plastering quality, there should be no uneven-ness. Ensue that there are no cracks
- Check for excessive dampness in the wall (if any)
- Check false ceiling in bathrooms (if there), ensure that it is properly fixed with no cracks.
- Check tiling even-ness & grouting. There should be no cement marks on the tiles
- Check for any cracks or scratches
- For Bathrooms, Utility and Balcony check the floor tilt to ensure correct water flow into the drain and that there is zero water accumulation anywhere.
- Ensure that there is no hollowness in the floor. Tap each tile or bounce a ball on each tile to check for the hollow sound. A hollow sound indicates that the tile is not set properly & needs to be replaced.
- Check for proper grouting of the tiles/ stone slabs especially in bathrooms
- Check for working of light points/switches (carry a zero watt bulb & tester if possible). Especially check the AC points, builders sometimes leave the AC points dummy (with no wiring)
- Check each point has cover plates & there are no cracks.
- Check availability of light, telephone and cable TV points as per plan.
- Check that all the plates are horizontal and not tilted
- Plates should be clean and free of paint marks.
- Check every circuit breaker.Switch off : Should switch off with a slight touch, Switch on: should not switch off while switching on.
- Check each switch for correct contact and springiness. Click should be clearly audible and not muted when switched on and off.
- Insist on getting the wiring diagram pasted on the inside of DB door Also check that the wiring of the home matches with the circuit diagram on the box.
- Check that the smoke sensors work. An agarbatti will help to awaken the sensor 🙂
- Check the sanitaryware (Wash basins, Sink, WC) for any scratches or cracks
- Ensure Kitchen Sink is grouted properly and that there is no leakage.
- Check the chrome fittings – ensure that there is no corrosion.
- Check whether the towel holders, faucets, toilet paper holders are provided as per plan.
- Check pipes for any leakages
- Ensure there is no blockage in any of the drains – I have personally struggled with flooding of the apartment due to this
- Ensure that the flush works properly
PS: If you have a question to ask then please note: On Nov 15th we have launched the Q&A module on The Studio website. The Q&A interface on this blog was unable to scale to the number of questions that we have been getting – you would have noticed being unable to scroll down to a question once the number of questions below a certain post increases beyond a certain limit.
Hence if you have a question then please post it at https://thestudiobangalore.com/questions-and-answers/
45 thoughts on “Villa / Apartment Interior Readiness & Handover Checklist: Things to check on BEFORE you take the formal handover of your dream Apartment or Villa from the builder.”
I'm a new user to this blog and I felt it amazing and i'v got a good guide and im bit confident in planning my interiors.
Would like to know if I can use PINE wood instead of PLY and what are its advantages.
Do you suggest any brands in PINE or PLYwood and any particular shops in JPnagar or Bannerghatta Road.
Pinewood is not recommended..you may use any hardwood based Ply. Please also go through the blog post http://www.homedesignbangalore.com/2010/09/so-what-is-right-material-to-choose-for
also browse through the Q&A/ Comments under the post above – it already has most of such questions answered
Nandita – just went through your blogs.. Great stuff, very good and clean explanation regarding interiors.
BTW, are you taking orders only from Bangalore.. just want to check if any orders taken from Hyderabad?
Hi – I restrict myself to Bangalore..already have a parallel job of taking care of 2 kids 🙂
Thanks for such a useful information in this ocean of internet…..
I had a query regarding Chimneys and Hobs, Can you suggest some thing that is less pricer than Faber? Do you think its really worth going for Faber instead of others? Also those brass based burners , is it really worth for indian kitchen as they claim?
Appreciate your response
Ekta here.Great blog and amazing tips 🙂 It would be great if you can share some of your garden/balcony works too and share your tips regarding designing these too. Thanks
I may put something up around the same going forward. However for outdoors (balcony/ gardens) what matters most is the choice of right plants depending on the direction of the sun and appropriate drainage. The rest is purely ergonomic
Elica or Kaff are equally good…you may try those. The smaller brands usually have service issues, however in terms of flame quality & suction they may be fine.
Your blog is really helpful.
Just have one question.WE have around 400 sq ft of wood work.The carpenter tells there would be minimum 45 plywood sheets consumed.I felt little suspicious.Please guide on whether this figure is relevant?And he is charging around Rs 160/sqft for the entire flat.
It will depend on the specific designs Gourab…there is really no thumbrule
Hi nandita I really liked your blogs..
we are shifting to our new flat next month and the wall has got dampness on the lower part ,we wanted to start the wood work.
Plz needs your suggestion
Get your builder to rectify the cause of the dampness and only then do any woodwork on that wall.
If that is not possible then you may tile the damp area and do the woodwork on top in BWR Ply (IS 303) or Marine Ply (IS 710)
Gone through your blog, really intresting to seek ocean of information shared by you as the experience speaks. My sincere thanks to you in spreading the awarness and guiding with lot of info.
I am starting up my interiors and the designer is suggesting for the Neem based ply and blockboards, recommending the brand 'Raaj Plywood', in this regard i wish to hear from you on the quality and durability of these product. I agree its a ocean when its comes to availability of brands in current market but comments from you will help in making decision.
I have not used Neem based ply or Raaj brand hence cannot comment. Whatever you use, please check that it is ISI marked and confirms to the IS 303 BWR/ MR (for Ply) or IS 1659 (Block Board) BWR/ MR grades as required. You may also go through
Need your advice on this. My interior designer has came with:
1.Greenply Gold BWP ISI710 of 18 mm thickness for kitchen and wardrobe cabinets – should 18mm will suffice or it should be of 19mm ?
2.For kitchen and wardrobe doors he is suggesting 16 mm thickness Gleanwood – BWR ISI 303. shouldn't we use 18mm thickness ?
3.The kitchen and wardrobe cabinet back side he is using Greenply-Gold BWP ISI 710 of 6mm thickness. what is your suggestion ?
Can you please help me out in all above three points
I am planning to renovate my flat(redoing interior work) which was occupied some two years back and in this connection I would like to know whether you offer consultancy service for such type of work-you need to visit the flat only once and give your recommendations for tweaking the existing interiors.
I don't take up renovation assignments due to bandwidth issues. However general consultancy works fine – however frankly I am not sure whether pure consultancy provides much value for the customer as the final output is deeply dependent on the quality of execution.
The suggestions from your designer are fine – you may go ahead
16 mm ply with both side laminate will end up at close to 18mm which is how much is needed for zero crank hinges to work well.
really appreciate the good work and for brilliant writeups . A few points:
1. you had mentioned about 3 classes of int designing-the budget one, the classic ones(with no compromise on material quality) and the high end ones. There are many articles about the studio types, but "the classic" variety wherein there is actually no compromise on quality doesnot seem to be stressed upon. I agree that we can get thei nfo in bits and pieces but would really appreciate if you can summarise your recommendations and options for this segment too,
2. with regards to the top-sliding in the sliding wardrobes, are there any other standard manufacturers other than hettich who offer that?
3. your ideas/opinion about "home safes" . How to keep valuables safe at home?
4. I am not finding any provision for "dressing table" kind of stuffs in your designs. is it old fashioned now a days and if so what are the alternatives?
1. The sample pricing thumbrule done (http://www.homedesignbangalore.com/2013/11/home-interiors-thumbrules-for-costing) are for the Classic range only…this has rich information that you may refer
2. Yes, apart from Hettich Ebco and Blum offer sliding systems of similar quality
3. Frankly I found home safes to be of little use. The robber will find it easy to find the safe and walk away with the whole thing.
4. Rather than having a separate dressing unit nowadays due to space constraints folks prefer to have it integrated with the Wardrobe
Thanks for your prompt reply. The studio range sliding wardrobes dont seem to have a lock. You would agree that there wil be cash/valuables if not all we need to keep at home. So i asked in that context.
As a supplement for the q&a in the blog regarding choice of material for wardrobes: you had recommended blockboard for shutters but in the studio range you have used marine ply and have commented that you want to use a material with zero chance of bending. Can marine ply be used in studio range wardrobe shuters more than 7 feet height?
can you share some pics of your projects with studio range fittings…..especially those with lofts on top.
Ideally there should be a steel almirah in the house for valuables. It can be placed in a wooden cupboard to ensure semblance with the decor. If not then a lockable drawer within the wardrobe also suits fine for valuables.
The Studio range comes with framed shutters designed to allow flexibility to use just about anything including fused glass, metallic/ MDF panels, Ply etc. AND go up-to a height of 9 feet.
If you have a specific requirement you may reach me at firstname.lastname@example.org
I came across your blogs while searching for interiors for my flat.I have a query on open kitchen and just want to confim it with you. I want to cover the kitchen on open side with cupboards and sliding glass cabinets on outside and normal cabinets on inside till 7-8 feet height, is this a good idea, will the structure be strong enough to hold without a wall support.
Wishing you a very happy new year.
Wish you a happy new year too. Yes the wooden structure will be stable & strong enough to take the load without wall support
I searched for handover checklist and landed on your blog. Had gone through many of your posts. Thanks a lot for sharing all these info. Just a question, do you do Interiors as profession? If so I would be interested to get a consultancy and the interior to be done for my flat. I am from Bangalore.
I do take on Interior assignments across Bangalore. You may reach me at email@example.com
Dear Ms. Nandita
Thank you very much for your blog. You have taken so much of interest and time to maintain this site.
It is an encyclopedia on interiors! I feel like I just read the Bible!!!!
Great Stuff Nandita!! appreciate..
want to know details about acrylic laminates and Hafele/ Blum kitchen availability/ price in Bangalore.
I am a novice into this field and I see so much efforts, time, hard work put into creating this space of interiors along side you being a mother to/of 2! You are a superwoman! So much of information, practical issues, are taken care by you in this blog! I greatly appreciate it. Fantastic interiors space you have here.
May I ask you this question? Please pardon me, I don't mean otherwise.
I would like to know if anyone in your circle had availed service from espiq kuchen, Whitefield.
Thank you again,
Waiting for your response!
Both are available n Bangalore. Century, Merino & Greenlam have a fairly wide variety of laminates including Hi Gloss (what folks call acrylic) ones. For Blum you may want to visit the Hafele experience center near Lalbagh, opposite HMG Stone.
Thanks for your kind words. To your question around Espiq, I have not come across them hence am afraid I cannot be of help.
We have an apartment under construction, could you please suggest aluminum or upvc windows which one will be better in long run? Which one will be good for heat and water reststance.
UPVC fares better than Aluminium on nearly all parameters
Amazing blog ms. Nandita. Sincerely appreciate your effort. Is 280/- per square fit high for carpentry charges. Work is with ply and block board(wardrobe, tv unit etc.) Also how much should we pay for gyproc sheet work.
Rs 250 psft for Carpentry is a fair rate. That said psft rates almost always go haywire and cause heartburn…for example veneer work will be charged differently from laminate, if you include many drawers then the rate will change. Hence it is best to agree on a lump-sum rate at the beginning itself based on broad designs.
Same applies for false ceiling work where rates may range from Rs. 70 psft to Rs 300 psft depending on the design
Thanks a lot for the reply. I have planned on using century club prime for wardrobes structure and block board for the doors. Kindly correct if i m wrong or need to change. Still confused on which material will be durable enough for tv unit, corner units and other small pieces. Please suggest. For kitchen hometown is giving ply bwr grade. Why not bwp? Isnt it better than bwr.
Material choice is fine. For dry areas you may use commercial ply as that will save you come cost.
BWP is better than BWR however why Hometown is not offering BWP is not something that I would know
Thanks a lot for the confirmation. I will definitely ask hometown now. What is commercial ply? And can you please suggest any dealer or shop, where I can buy century without worrying for fakes. As a novice when I ask the sellers for century, they tend to give me vague replies and try to sell the product they have like sagar ply, aston ply or neemwood.
Dealers themselves are manufacturers of fake plywood hence there is no way to be sure. You may however try online sites like plyduniya.com or buy direct from the manufacturers website (greenplyplywood.com, plyneer.in etc.). Also Kitply has a introduced a 3d barcode on their ply that can be scanned with your phone to determine whether the ply is genuine
Thanks a ton ms. Nandita for the help. It matters a lot really to a novice like me specially in a market like India where every other person calls their work better. Does method of manual carpentry reduces the quality of best material like century club prime. I have been told so by one agency. Please enlighten.
I don't understand why manual carpentry should reduce the quality of the material. If the carpenter does not know his trade and messes up then it is a different matter.
Yeah, I too thought so. Actually the logic they give is based on the process of edge banding. Arguement is that manual edge banding is nor aesthetic neither durable in long term.